HERE ARE JUST A FEW PICTURES THAT DIFFERENT PEOPLE HAVE SENT IN.
IF YOU HAVE ANY FISHING PICTURES, VIDEOS, BLOGS OR WHAT EVER JUST SEND IT TO US AND WE WILL POST THEM AS SOON AS WE ARE ABLE.

REGARDS FROM THE CREW

RAY KOERNER's New Jersey bass
Two of lake champlains best laker takers Jim and Jesse
Tyler Mac's first pike

If you fish for Bass or almost any other type of fish then you need to be able to use “senkos” and other plastic worms in several different ways as they have been responsible for catching many many many bass as well as almost all other fish species.  I cannot personally think of one species of fish that I havent caught with some sort of worm.

Green Senko Worm

Plastic Worm

As I am sure you know, all bass especially largemouth bass will for the most part hide in the shadows or in and around underwater structure such as rocks, stumps, fallen trees etc.   They will sit in wait for some sort of food to pass by so that they can rush out and ambush their prey.   As previously stated, if you can put a bait in close proximity of a waiting bass then you stand a very good chance of catching a fish.    Second to location in importance is presentation.   By this we mean how the bait is presented to the fish.  This includes the color, size, shape, and movement.

A senko is a type of plastic stick worm and is probably one of the most popular worm type bait for bass fishermen.    It has been responsible for catching many winning bass.   The biggest key to the senko is its very soft plastic and its very realistic drop rate.   As a result it looks and feels like a real worm falling through the water column.   Plastic worms can be used to catch almost any kind of fish.   You may be fishing for bass but catch walleye, pike, musky or even panfish as they will all take worms.    Plastic worms are a cheap bait, easy to use and are your best go to bait for children.

There are many ways to fish with plastic worms.   When using a plastic worm especially the senko style worm you should usually let it sink down on a slack line all the way to the bottom.  That means that your line shouldnt be tight forcing the worm to glide forward in an unnatural way.   But your line cannot be completely loose either as you will miss the hits that take place as the bait slowly sinks through the water.  Let your line have a small amount of slack as it sinks so that the bait can fall straight down as it would if it was a real worm.  But watch your line to see if the bait stops moving or the line moves in a different way.        IF ANYTHING DIFFERENT HAPPENS – TIGHTEN YOUR LINE AND THEN SET YOUR HOOK

Once your worm is on the bottom just twitch your rod tip very slightly to give the worm some slight movement to attract the fish.  If you dont get any bites after a short time then reel your worm in slowly trying to give the worm an action that will attract fish as it is retrieved.  It can be by hopping it along the bottom, swimming it back or twitching it like a jerk bait then letting it sink to the bottom once again.   If you are fishing close to structure like docks then you will probably just want to cast out to very specific spots and let your worm fall to the bottom and then retrieve it to cast to the nest good looking fish holding spot as that will produce the best results.             AGAIN IF YOU FEEL SOMETHING DIFFERENT ESPECIALLY THE WEIGHT OF THE FISH – THEN SET THE HOOK !!

WAYS TO HOOK WORMS

Nose hooked – simply put  a smaller hook through the front or nose of the worm

Standard - Tie on an offset worm hook using your favorite fishing knot.

• Insert about 1/2 of an inch of the point of the hook straight into the top of the worm.
• Push the point out the side of the worm
• Slide the worm down the hook toward the eye, rotate it around the hook so that the point of the hook is facing the worm.
• The eye of the hook should be just at the top of the worm.
• Allow the worm to hang straight down and mark the point that the bend of the hook reaches with your fingers.
• Keeping your fingers on that spot,  insert the point of the hook into the worm while keeping the worm straight.
• Push the point all the way through the worm.   (The worm should make a straight line between the point and the eye of the hook.)
• The tail of the worm will move behind the hook acting as an attractor as it is pulled through the water.

Weedless – To set your worm up to run weedless you simply hook the worm as stated above.    Once you have the worm properly on your hook you push the top of the worm in front of the hook very slightly forward and then set the point of the hook into that small piece of worm that you had pushed forward.   Once you release that piece to cover the point of the hook  your worm should run through the weeds without getting caught up.    Even when running your plastic worm weedless the hook will still easily penetrate the fishes mouth if it is bitten.

Wacky – In the middle of most stick worms there is a thicker piece which is meant to resemble the worms egg sack.   Just take a hook like a circle hook and hook the worm through that thicker area in the worms middle.   When pulled through the water, the two ends of wacky hooked worm will act as the attractor.      Some people will use a small rubber o ring or similar device that they place around the middle of the worm.  They then attach the worm to the hook with the o ring instead of piercing the worm itself.

REMEMBER – If you are using a circle hook you dont pull back sharply to set the hook.   Once you feel something on your line, tighten your line and sweep your rod tip back and to the side until you feel the fishes weight then just keep pressure on the fish

As previously discussed Bass can be found in a variety of environments.

Largemouth Bass will tend to be found in shallower water that is rich in structure such as weed beds stumps, fallen trees docks etc.   That is not to say that they cannot be found elsewhere but generally that is where you will target largemouth bass.    Largemouth for the most part are an ambush hunter so they will lay in wait hidden by structure or shadows.   Place your selected bait or lure in close proximity to where the bass are likely to hide and you will increase your number of fish caught.   This will be discussed in more detail within the specifics for each technique

Smallmouth Bass can be found right next to their largemouth cousin but in general they will be found in deeper water.   Look for steeper drop offs or bottom structure in deeper water.   Rock piles, changes in bottom from soft to hard, changes in depth (even subtle ones) can all hold fish.    They may hide and ambush their prey just as the largemouth do, but they will also school more than the largemouth and will often roam open water looking for schools of bait fish or foraging along the rocky bottom for crawfish, smaller fish and other smaller food sources.   They can sometimes be harder to locate and target than largemouth bass but if you find them and they are feeding you can catch a lot more fish in a short time.

TUBE JIGS

If you fish for smallmouth bass in large bodies of water then this a technique that you will need to get good at.

The tube itself is simply a round tube shaped plastic lure that is closed at the front end.   The back end of the tube is open and has the back portion of the tube cut into long strands which move as the tube is pulled through the water.   Although they can be fished in many ways by far the most popular is to drag them along the bottom to imitate crawfish.   You simply take a tube jig head weight of the appropriate size and insert into the hollow of the tube.   The hook generally extends out of the rear of the tube and is exposed over the top of the tube itself.   You push the eye of the hook through the tube so that it is exposed on the top of the tube.   Now just tie your line directly to the eye of the hook and you are ready to fish.   This is a very easy and effective way to fish for many species.

The next thing to keep in mind is that the fish can often hit your jig while it is on the way down.  It is very important to let your jig fall to the bottom, on a “controlled line”.     This means, as the jig is sinking on its way to the bottom, it should not be on a tight line, or on a very slack line.  You line needs to be bordering on tight.      This will allow your jig to fall straight down instead of at a forward angle towards the boat or shoreline thus creating more of a natural presentation.   While your jig is sinking to the bottom, make sure you watch your line, especially where it enters the water.  Watch  for any sudden movements in the line.     If you see the line move to one side, or “twitch”, or if the line seems to stop falling – set the hook immediately.   If you are not paying attention you will miss the fish taking the bait which will give the fish time to spit your bait out.   Many of the record smallmouth bass catches have been on tube jigs.  When dragged across a rocky bottom you will often feel what seems like just dead weight.  No strike – No head shakes, you just feel something different that makes it feel heavy.   Pull back on your rod and keep the pressure on it.  More often that not a fish has picked up your bait and you are not aware of it.  If you feel anything that indicates that it is a fish then set the hook and start reeling.   Until then just keep the pressure on the rod until you know if you have a fish or have hung up on the rocky bottom.  If you are hung up on the bottom try pulling your  rod tip  up sharply in different directions to dislodge it then let the line go completely limp and try reeling it in again.   An unfortunate fact of fishing tube jigs in rocky bottoms is that you will loose  a few of them over a day.   A fortunate fact is that they are cheap in comparison to almost any other kind of lure.   The tubes and the jig heads themselves each cost about $5 for about 10 pieces.

REMEMBER THAT WHEN YOU ARE PULLING HARD TRYING TO GET A TUBE JIG UNSTUCK PULL TO THE SIDE SO THAT IT WILL NOT STRIKE YOU IF IT SUDDENLY RELEASES

Tubes can also be fished as a swimbait and in other manners but generally they are dragged across the bottom.   To use as a tube like a swimbait that you cast out and retrieve, simply put the tube on an appropriate hook and cast it out.  If you need it to sink further into the water column then just add a small weight either inside the tube itself of on the line in front of the tube.  Try different retrieves.  Slow or fast retrieves can work but my favorite is to do a retrieve where I reel  it at a slower pace, then stop reeling which allows the tube to drop in the water column giving it a diving and darting action.  I then give several short snaps of my rod tip to give the tube an erratic darting action in the water.  I then just return to my regular retrieve.

KEYS TO FISHING TUBE JIGS

• If you are dragging tubes then make sure that your lure is in constant contact with the bottom.
• You can usually tell you have contact by the occasional tugging as it passes over the rocky bottom.
• If you are not feeling the bottom then try letting more line out until you feel it
• Use a low stretch line such as braid or fluorocarbon so that you can feel the bottom and the fish
• Always use a fluorcarbon leader.  It is invisible in the water and it is very abrasion resistant
• If you are fishing from shore or a non moving boat or you are in fairly shallow water you could probably use a weight of 1/8th of an ounce or even less and be able to make contact with the bottom.  However if you are fishing from a boat that is drifting, you are in water with a fast current or just deeper water then you will probably start with a 1/4 ounce so you can make bottom contact and go heavier if need be.   Most bass fishermen in the Lake Erie area will use a 1/4 to 3/8 ounce as their go to weight but if the wind is very low and the drift is very slow then you can go to a lighter weight.   Fishermen from the St Lawrence River area can  easily go to a 1/2 ounce to start and go to 3/4 if need be.  That is due to the very fast current that stops lighter weights from reaching the bottom.
• Slow down.    Try and make sure that you are not going to fast.   If you are casting use a slow retrieve bumping it slowly along the bottom.    If you are drift fishing from a boat keep your speed under 1 mph if possible, otherwise you will need a heavy weight.
• Use the lightest weight possible – The lighter the weight the easier it is for the fish to inhale the bait and subsequently get caught.
• Should you detect anything different in your line, always set the hook!

Required Tackle

Rod – I prefer a sensitive 7 foot rod with a medium flex and a fast tip – Shimano and St Croix make very nice ones

Reel – Any decent spin casting reel will do, but I do like the shimano reels as they have a very smooth drag system

Line – You will need fluorocarbon line or at least a fluorocarbon leader, I recommend the seaguar abrazix                                                                  (fluoro is invisible in water – it has low stretch and is very abrasion resistant)

Tubes – Get a variety of tubes as fish from different bodies of water will key in on different colors and sizes.   You can get assorted kits but you are best to speak with local fishermen or tackle shops to determine which specific tubes will work in your area.   All tubes will work in the same manner, but fish will definitely target certain colors and sizes much more than others so have a variety available to you

Tube Jig Heads – Again get an assortment of weights and hook sizes in your jig heads but to find out what is working in your area you are best to speak with a local tackle shop to see what size and weight they use.   When in doubt start with a light jig head but if you cannot make good contact with the bottom  then go heavier.

Fish management and fish restocking are two of the most important issues that face fishermen of this century. Although we as fishermen have become better at catch and release and have at least started taking this concept seriously. Without the efforts of special interest groups like Muskies Canada, Metro East Anglers and the Ringwood Hatchery we the fishing community would have no more fish to catch. Between poor catch and release practices of the past, netting practices of certain groups, invading species, destruction of habitat and spawning areas, water pollution and lack of true enforcement of fishing laws we are for all intents and purposes facing what could be a completely collapsing fishery.

If not for the efforts of a few dedicated fishermen like those of Muskies Canada, Metro East Anglers and Ringwood Hatchery the rest of us would not have anything to fish for in a matter of a few short years. Every year these groups along with many others manage to hatch and release thousands of fry into different locations.

This year members of the Muskies Canada involved in the Lake Simcoe Restoration Project have released about 1800 Muskie fry in 6 different locations around Lake Simcoe. Many thanks to members of this group who supplied the pictures of the Musky fry below.

Believe it or not, this year is not a typical year for members of the Metro East Anglers and the Ringwood Hatchery. Although there will be at least 540 thousand Chinook Salmon, 20 thousand Rainbow Trout and 13 thousand Coho Salmon released this year which in themselves are really big numbers.
In a typical year the release numbers are at least 540 thousand Chinook Salmon, 20 thousand Rainbow Trout, 50 thousand Coho Salmon, 50 thousand Brown Trout and 70 thousand Atlantic Salmon. These fry are released into a number of areas of local rivers and are thus imprinted to those rivers which flow into Lake Ontario. These yearly releases of Salmon and Trout fry along with those released by other hatcheries help to keep the numbers of fish at a respectable level for the lake Ontario sport fishery. Without these groups the rest of the fishing community would soon find that the Great Lakes fishery would soon collapse.

	Volunteers help to catch spawning fish. That is right people, VOLUNTEERS Most of these types of programs are run by volunteers,and they can always use your help!
		They milk the eggs from the captured fish and they fertilize the eggs.
		They hatch the eggs and they keep the thousands of fry in large tanks
		They restock all of the fry into area rivers
		JUST SO LUCKY PEOPLE LIKE US CAN CATCH FANTASTIC FISH LIKE THESE!

HOW YOU CAN HELP

• Use proper gear including hooks that cause less damage to the fish, proper nets, proper tools like side cutters for cutting hooks etc.
• Always use proper catch and release practices to minimize the shock to the fish.
• Take your time when you are releasing fish. Make sure that it has recovered enough that it will survive.
• Fish only where and when you are allowed to ensure that you are not catching spawning fish etc.
• Join angling groups that are active in restocking your local fishery
• Donate money or time to your local hatcheries

The Ringwood hatchery will be needing volunteers on March the 26th at 9 am.

Please contact andyr@sympatico.ca directly for details.

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Hi everyone.

We have had a number of requests for some very basic fishing info as it would seem that there is a bit of a void of that sort of info on the net.   If you have any info that you are looking for please dont hesitate to ask as there is usually more people out there that would like to know as well.

Here are a few terms that you beginners might not know.   We will add to this list as we think of more terms or when anyone asks for something specific.      As a result of some of the requests that we have had, we will also be doing some videos in the very near future.  they will include knot tying, the proper use of a bait and spin casting reels for beginners and the use of some specific types of fishing gear like downriggers, dipsy divers, torpedo divers, wire line and lead core line.   If there is anything else that you can think of that you would like us to cover in this series PLEASE LET US KNOW!     It is our intention to give you whatever fishing info you need to help you have a better more succesful fishing day.

Regards from the crew at MFN

Terms

Trolling- when you drive your boat along a water way (usually at a very slow speed) while pulling your lures along behind the boat in order to catch fish. These lures either dive on their own in order to get down to the depth where the fish are or you can use a down rigger or other diving mechanism to get your lure to the desired depth

Casting – when you take your fishing rod and reel in your hand and you pitch your bait out into promising looking areas away from the boat using the fishing rod and reel. Then you use your fishing reel to bring your lure or bait back to the boat so that you can once again cast your bait out to try and catch fish.

Jigging – When you use a jig head type of lure on your fishing line.   You cast it out, and let it sink to the bottom where it sits waiting for passing bottom feeding fish. Or you might cast it out into a patch of weeds or other underwater structure again letting it sit, the twitching it and slowly retrieving it back to your rod.

Drop Shotting – A small weight is attached to the very end of your fishing line.   A  small hook is then attached to the line somewhere above the end with the weight.  You then cast out your line so that it is quite close to the side of the boat shoreline etc.  As there is a weight at the very end it will settle to the bottom.   This means that the hook with the bait on it will sit as far as you set it above the weight.  You simply twitch your rod tip in order to give the bait some action.  This is a very effective way to fish in areas where fish are heavily pressured.

REELS

Bait casting reel – a type of reel that uses a level wind type of retrieve. This type of reel is used to cast out heavier lures or when the fish you are catching are larger, stronger or are in an area with a lot of weeds, wood or other under water obsticles.      They are a little harder to use than the spin casting type of reel but are easily mastered. Video instruction on how to use a bait caster for the first time will be on this site in the near future.

Level wind reel – A type of reel that uses a level wind retrieve for your fishing line.    They are used almost exclusively for trolling and where line counters are required. Because of the way that the line is retrieved these types of reels are very powerful, having great torque to help you bring in those extra large fish

Line counter reel – A reel that has the ability to count how many feet of line you have out. This is particularly useful when you are trolling so that you can put your bait exactly where you want it.     They are almost always on a bait casting or level wind reel.

Spinning reel – This type of reel is used to cast out lighter baits and lures as well as drop shotting, jigging etc. They are an open faced reel where the line is retrieved by the “bail” which circles the spool thus rewrapping the line onto the reel. They are easier to use than the bait casting style of reel and can cast a lighter bait farther, but generally dont have the pulling power that a bait caster will.

Spincasting reel – A reel that is similar to the spinning reel in that the line is returned to the spool by being wound around the spool.   Unlike most other reels, this reel has a closed face.     This is the reel most commonly used by children and adults who have not fished previously because it is easy to use and does not tend to have line tangle issues as often as other types of reels may have in the hands of a beginner.

LINES

Wire line – A type of fishing line that is made by taking many strands of wire and wrapping them tightly together so that they make one stronger wire. Used almost exclusively when trolling as it helps your lures go deeper in the water. It is available in assorted weight strengths but is most often used in about 30 lb test.

Monofilament line – This is the line that most peole associate with fishing. It is made from one strand of nylon or similar material. It comes in many different pounds test which simply means the breaking weight of that particular line. The lighter the “test” the smaller the diameter of the line. Mono is usually clear and is fairly invisible in the water. Mono line does have an inherent amount of stretch to it

Florocarbon line – Floro Carbon is a clear line that is virtually invisible under water. It is very hard and as such is very abrasion resistant and makes fantastic leaders for all fish especially the toothy ones.  We recommend using it as a leader on virtually all of your reels.

Braided line – A line that is made from taking many fibers and wrapping them into one tightly wound line. This results in a very small diameter line that is much stronger than any mono line of the same diameter. It has no stretch and is generally much more abrasion resistant than standard line

Leader – The line that goes between your main line and your lure or bait. Leaders can be made from any kind of line but florocarbon line is the leader material of choice as it is invisible in the water and extremely abrasion resistant. Leaders can be tapered so that the end closer to the lure is as small as possible. Leaders can also be made out of steel or titanium when being used for large toothy preditors who may bite through regular line.

Lead Core Line – A type of fishing line that has lead inside the multi coloured sheath. Lead core lines come in an assorted number of colors. When you let out your line you count how many colors you let out. Each color makes your line and the lure that you have attached go down a certain number of feet. Usually 3 to 5 feet per color but the real depth is based on your boat speed. So for example if you were to have a 12 color lead core line and you let out 10 colors at 2.0 mph you should have your lure down approx. 40 feet or 4 feet per color times the ten colors is 40 feet.   You will need to consult proper charts to know just how deep your lure is running at specific speeds with a certain number of colors out.

If you want to know how to tie many of the fishing knots that we use every day then just click here and you will be taken to an associated site that will show you how to tie many of them.

LURES

Lure – something that is not live or real that you put on the end of your line to attract and catch the fish.   Typically they resemble fish, crayfish, worms, leeches or other things that fish would feed on.   They include crank baits, jerk baits, spinner baits, in line spinners along withmany other styles.

Bait – Something that is real or live that you put on your line in order to catch fish.   These would include minnows, worms, leeches, frogs, crayfish etc

Buzz bait -  Similar to a spinnerbait, this type of bait has a piece of bent wire that has a blade at one end, and a weighted hook at the other end.  Your line is attached in the bend that is in between the blade and the hook ends.   In essence this is a surface lure (a lure which is retrieved at the surface).   You cast it out and then you start your retrieve at a speed that allows the blades of the lure to run just at the waters surface.   This helps the lure make a great deal of  noise as the blades turn collide and gurgle as they are pulled through the water.  A great lure for big bass, pike, muskie etc when they are feeding at of near the surface.  Works well in areas that have a lot of submerged weeds, trees, stumps etc.

Crank baits – A crank bait is a bait that resembles what the fish are feeding on which will dive down into the water as you crank it back to you. They are designed to attract fish by their wobble and flash as they move through the water. They almost always have a plastic lip on the front of the bait. The size and shape of the lip determines how deep the bait will run and will also often assist in keeping the bait from getting fouled up on underwater debris. They can be retrieved at differnt speeds but are generally cast out and retrieved at a fairly constant speed. Try twitching your rod a bit once in a while as you retrieve your lure as it will give the lure a bit of a different action.

Chatter baits – A newer style of bait that can be used like a jig or a swimming bait. There is a small blade in the front of the lure that makes the bait shutter and chatter as it is retrieved through the water.  It will usually have a plastic trailer attached to the back end to give it more size and movement.

Flippin Jig – A type of jig that has a bush guard built in as well as some sort of permanent skirt to attract fish.    It is often heavier than most regular jig heads and is used almost exclusively to fish heavy weeds and submerged brush for bass and similar species.

Grub twister tail – Grubs are a type of plastic lure that is most often attached to a jig head or drop shot hook.   They have a twisted tail that moves about in the water causing fish to want to bite or eat it.  Probably one of the most common walleye baits ever used.

In line spinners – In line spinners have a small piece of wire running through a spinner that will turn as the lure is pulled through the water. The wire ends at a hook (usually a treble hook) which is attached to the end of it. The front end of the wire attaches to your fishing line. They may or may not have a trailer of nylon skirt, feathers or plastics.

Jerk baits – A jerk bait is a bait that you would cast out and bring back with a quick jerk motion followed by a stalling or letting the lure sit phase.  Jerk baits are usually a hard bait but there are very effective soft jerk baits out there as well. Jerk baits are usually fish shapped and have some flash to them. They are cast away from the boat towards a prospective fish holding area. Once the lure hits the water just let it sit for a few seconds. Then you draw the rod tip down towards the water quickly. This quick jerk on the rod causes the bait to move and twitch very quickly through the water usually causing it to move in such a way that it attracts feeding fish. Note – Often in order to catch fish, you must let the lure sit for at least a few seconds before you jerk it again as fish ften hit the lure on the stall phase.   You should have a bait casting reel and a stiffer (medium to med/heavy)rod in order to use jerk baits effectively.

Jigs- A small weighted head with a hook attached. Almost always tipped with something like live bait, plastics, feathers etc. Jige are used to get your bait to the bottom so that feeding fish can find and eat them

Senko – a type of plastic worm that has a natural sink or fall rate in the water and are made of soft malible plastic. Probably the most commonly used bass catching plastic lure out there.

Spinner baits- A spinner bait uses a bent piece of wire to act as an attachment point for your line. It can have any number of different assortments of blades on one end and it will have a weighted piece and single hook at the other end. There is usually some sort of covering between the weight and the hook. It can be made from nylon skirts, feathers or plastics of assorted shapes but the nylon skirt is by far the most common. It is usually a fairly good lure for use in loose weeds, and it is a very good way of quickly searching for active fish. It imitates a school of baitfish and can be used for a huge variety of fish species.

Spoons – A piece of metal is shaped in a specific way so that it will move through the water in a way that lures fish to bite it.   They come in a huge variety of sizes, colors and uses.   You attach your fishing line to the front or slimmer end of the spoon, and the hooks are attached to the fatter end of the spoon.  These are particularly effective when fishing for salmon trout and other cold water fish species, but there are spoons for virtually every application and every fish.  The movement of the spoon is affected by the speed of your boat or retrieve so watch how it moves at different speeds and look for that perfect speed that gives you the best lure movement.

Trolling Flies - A fly has a piece of line that runs through a small head.   There are nylon or foil skirts attached to the head.  These skirts pulsate as the fly is pulled through the water.  The front end of your fly line is attached to a piece of equipment like a spin doctor that will give it some movement.  The other end of the line is attached to your hooks.   The fly has no inherent movement of its own so it must be attached to a flasher or similar piece of gear.  These are very good for catching Salmon, Trout and other cold water species.

Walleye Rig – Although this type of rig can be used to catch any number of species of fish, it is used far more often to catch walleye than any other fish.    It consists of a piece of line going through a spinning blade a few beads and ends up with either one hook or several hooks.   These types of rigs are always tipped with bait or plastics and are then dragged slowly through the water.  They can be used in concert with different types of weights to make them go deeper and are often used by walleye fishermen who either slow troll or back troll in order to get the presentation that they want.

OTHER GEAR

Bow mount electric – A small electric motor that is mounted on a long shaft that can be lowered into the water from the front of your boat. You can control speed direction and drift with a hand foot or remote control depending on the model.

Bottom bouncer weights - A system that gets your rig or lures near to the bottom.  It is made from a bent piece of wire that has a weight as part of the bottom.   You attach your fishing line to the bend in the middle of the bottom bouncer and your lure or rig is attached to the non weighted end of the wire.  Because of the way that you set this up, the weighted end is dragged along the bottom and as a result your lure runs along just a few inches above the bottom.

Divers and Weights – There are many different styles of weighted divers, but all have the same purpose that being to take your lure to a specific depth in the water column. Examples of this would be a dipsy or deep diver, a torpedo weight and snap on weights.

Dipsy and Deep Divers – They are attached to your fishing line and a second line is then attached from the back of the diver to your lure. On the bottom of the diver there is a weight. This weight can be slid from one side to the other. If the weight is in the centre then the diver will run straight back from the stern or rear of the boat. If the weight is put on a setting to the right or left then the diver will run down and to the right or left of the boat depending on which side you set it to. The further the weight is turned to the one side, the further the diver will go to that side of the boat. That means that you will have to let out more line to get your lure to the desired depth. These types of divers come with depth charts so you know how much line to let out to get to the desired depth. There is a mechanism that disengages the diver when a fish strikes your lure, that way you are fighting the fish and not the weighted diver.

Down rigger – A piece of equipment that allows you to troll with your lure at what ever depth you wish. It uses a stainless steel cable to lower a large weight over the side or back of the boat to the depth of your choice. You then use clips to attach the line from your rod and reel to the down rigger weight or line prior to its being lowered. Thus your lure is taken down to the designated depth. A very effective way to troll for most cold water species like salmon and tout.

Drift Sock-  A large nylon bag that is cone shaped.  It is attached to your boat by ropes and it sits in the water.  As it is dragged through the water it causes drag on the boat which slows the boat down.  This is particularly helpful when drift fishing and you need to keep your boat at a slow pace like when fishing for Smallmouth Bass on Lake Erie.

Flasher or dodger – A flasher or dodger is made from a piece of plastic.   They look like a rectangle with rounded edges and come in many many colors.  The front end is slightly narrower than the back.  You attach your fishing line to the front end and your lure is attached to the back.     You run a line that is 18 inches to 3 feet from the flasher to your lure.   When pulled through the water, a flasher moves in large circles within the water column.   This movement is meant to attract fish.  When dragged behind the flasher, a lure will also be moved in the same large circles.   If the lure has an action of its own like a spoon, then it will move in its own action as well as moving in the large circles thus giving them even more motion to attract fish.

Jet diver – a small hollow plastic piece that resembles a small plane. It is attached to your line and then another line goes from the rear of the jet diver to your lure. Once attached to your line the jet diver is lowered into the water and as a result of its shape, it dives down into the water taking your lure with it.  Because these items are hollow, they float. That means that if a fish strikes then the diver is taken out of the fight allowing you to simply fight your fish. It also means that you can use this system to get your lure down onto snag infested areas because if it gets hung up it will float to the surface taking your lure with it.

Kicker motor – The small motor that is attached to the back of the boat so that you can troll at slower speeds and use less gas than you would by using your bigger main motor.

Power pole – A hydraulic pole that is attached to the rear of your boat. When you are in shallow water and you wish to stop your boat from drifting you simply deploy your power pole which goes into the bottom and stabilises your boat stopping it from moving without spooking the fish in the area as an anchor may do.. It is very quick and easy to use and is very effective in shallow water.

Side Planner or planner boards – A rectangular piece of plastic that is weighted on the bottom so that it sits upright in the water and is pointed to one side so that it will always run to one side of the other of your boat.  A side planner board is used when trolling and is attached to your fishing line after you have let you lure out to the desired distance.  You then let out more line so that the planner board takes your lure further to the side of your boat.   The more line you let our after attaching the planner board the further off to the side of the boat it takes your lure.  There are other planner boards that are attached directly to a mast in the boat by a separate line.   You then let your lure out the desired distance from the boat then you attach your fishing line to the line which goes to the board by a clip and you let out line until your fishing line is taken to the desired distance from the side of the boat.   Very effective way to get lures out and away from your boat.

Spin Doctor -  The spin dr is made from plastic and is shaped like a fish or torpedo with a rounded front end and a rear that looks like a tail.   Your line is attached to the front end and your lure is attached to the rear via a line that should be between 18 inches and 3 feet long.   The spin dr is not a lure.  It is an attractor and it gives motion to your lure.   Certain lures like trolling flies mave no natural motion of their own and cannot be used without some sort of attractor like a spin dr.  Other lures like spoons have a motion of their own but when used with a spin dr flasher or dodger they have more or different movement which can get fish to bite when they otherwise would not.

Snap swivel – something that you tie to the end of your line that allows you to switch your lures quickly and easily. As it also has a swivel built in it will allow the lure to move freely without twisting the line.

Swivel – something that you put between lines or lines and bait that allows the lure or bait to move freely without twisting the line.

Sonar – Most people refer to this piece of equipment as their fish finder. In fact it would be better to think of it as a piece of equipment that can show you the water column under your boat and more importantly the bottom structure. Fish generally relate to structure (weeds, rocks, submerged trees etc) or to bait fish. So by using sonar you can see the bottom structure as well as any schools of bait in the water. This will help you find the fish.

GPS – Global Positioning Sattelites. There are approx. 20 satelites circling the globe that are available for use by non military or non government agencies. If you have a GPS system in your boat then the system triangulates your position to determine exactly where you are. It can also tell you your speed to within 1 tenth of 1 mile per hour and is generally very accurate. These systems are considered much more accurate than a typical boat speedometer. If you do not know how fast you are going then you probably dont know how deep your lures are when you are trolling. And you may not be getting the action that you want out of your lure as that is often speed dependant as well.

Terminal gear – the small usually metal pieces that join the fishing line with the lures

Torpedo weights and snap on weights – They are attached to your fishing line at predetermined points so that your line and lure are taken to the desired depth. They are attached by clips that are very easy to use. You would simply let out a certain amount of line, attach the weights to your line and then you would let out the remainder of the required line. If you catch a fish then you just reel it in as you would any other fish. Once the weight is close to the tip of your rod then you unattach the weight and continue reeling in the fish. These types of weight systems also come with very accurate charts showing just how many feet of line you require to reach your desired depth.

]]> http://www.myfishingnetwork.com/2009/fishing-for-beginners/feed/ 0 http://www.myfishingnetwork.com/2009/walleye-books-dvds-and-magazines/ http://www.myfishingnetwork.com/2009/walleye-books-dvds-and-magazines/#comments Fri, 20 Feb 2009 15:48:00 +0000 admin http://www.myfishingnetwork.com/?p=674

Hey there walleye enthusiasts Here are a few books dvd’s and magazines that might give you the information that could help you catch more and bigger walleye

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HERE ARE A LIST OF FISHING GROUPS AND FORUMS THAT WE KNOW ABOUT
PLEASE FEEL FREE TO GIVE US THE WEB ADDRESS FOR ANY OTHER FISHING FORUMS, BULLITEN BOARDS OR OTHER FISHING GROUPS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO SEE ACCESSED VIA MY FISHING NETWORK. THIS IS YOUR FISHING NETWORK SO LET US KNOW WHAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO SEE

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MUSKIES CANADA -  http://www.muskiescanada.ca/

CREDIT VALLEY CONSERVATION AUTHORITY – http://www.creditvalleycons.com/

OUTDOORS NIAGARA - http://www.outdoorsniagara.com/

QUINTE FISHING – http://www.quintefishing.com/

ONTARIO SPORT FISHING – http://www.ontariosportfishing.com/

ONTARIO FISHING FORUMS – http://www.ontariofishingforums.com/

ONTARIO FISHING NET – http://ontariofishing.net/linkspages/Message_Boards/

WESTERN SLOPE ANGLERS – http://www.westernslopeanglers.com/

BC FISHING REPORTS – http://www.bcfishingreports.com/

METRO EAST ANGLERS – http://www.metroeastanglers.com/

GREAT ONTARIO SALMON DERBY

Lake Ontario United – Fishing Forum

HEY THERE ALL MY FLY FISHING BUDDIES. I HOPE THAT YOU ARE ABLE TO FISH WHERE EVER YOU ARE
IF YOU ARE SOMEWHERE WARM AND ARE ABLE TO USE YOUR FLY ROD, WE ARE JEALOUS.
WE CANT WAIT UNTIL SPRING UP HERE IN THE NORTH SO WE CAN WET OUR FLY LINE.
HERE ARE SOME OF THE MOST POPULAR FLY FISHING MAGAZINES, BOOKS OR DVD’S AVAILABLE.
IF YOU WISH TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THEM OR TO SUBSCRIBE JUST CLICK ON THE LINK.

IF YOU HAVE OTHER FLY FISHING MAGAZINES, BOOKS OR DVD’S THAT YOU WOULD LIKE ADDED TO THE LIST JUST SEND US WHATEVER INFORMATION YOU HAVE AND WE WILL TRY AND ADD THE LINK FOR YOU

CHEERS.

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HERE ARE SOME BOOKS FOR YOU TO LOOK INTO IN CASE YOU NEEDED MORE TIPS OR TECHNIQUES ON FLY FISHING.

SOME ARE E BOOKS SO YOU GET THEM IMMEDIATELY, OTHERS REQUIRE ORDERING

HERE ARE A COUPLE OF FLY FISHING DVD’S THAT YOU MIGHT WANT. IN CASE YOU DIDNT FIND WHAT YOU WANTED WE WILL ADD MANY MANY MORE AS WE FIND THEM SO PLEASE BOOKMARK THIS PAGE AND RETURN WHEN YOU ARE NOT FISHING.

TAKE A FLY DAY.

Hey guys.
As I am sure you can tell from the picture on the front page we like Muskie`s
In fact we love catching muskies. Believe us when we tell you that there are very few fish in the warm water group that will give you the fight that a big musky will. They require tougher gear, bigger tackle and a truck load of patience, but if you can put it all together you too can catch a 50 plus inch fish and have the fish moment of a lifetime. If this is something that you want to try especially for your first time, then we would recommend that you seriously consider watching a dvd or reading a book or magazine on the subject. We would also recommend taking a good look at all of your tackle from the rod and reel to the line and terminal tackle that you intend to use as odds are that they are not up to the fight you could end up in.

Check back with us in a few weeks as we will be putting together a few tips for the musky fisherman.

We hope that at least once in your life you too can hook into a big Musky, and we promise if you do you will never forget it.

DVD’S
. .BOOKS .

HELLO TO THE HARD WATER FISHERMEN OUT THERE.
WITH THE TEMPERATURES WELL BELOW ZERO IN THE NORTH
THE ICE IS THICK AND THE FISHING IS GOOD.
HERE ARE SOME ICE FISHING BOOKS AND DVD’S FOR YOU TO HAVE A LOOK AT.
WHETHER YOU ARE A BEGINNER OR AN EXPERTICE FISHERMAN THESE BOOKS
AND DVD’S HAVE SOMETHING FOR YOU

	BOOKS

	DVD’S

HEY THERE MY FELLOW BASS ENTHUSIASTS.
I HOPE THAT WHERE EVER YOU ARE YOU ARE ABLE TO FISH FOR BIG BASS!
HERE ARE SOME BASS MAGAZINES JUST FOR THE BASS ENTHUSIAST.
WHETHER FOR YOU OR A PRESENT FOR SOMEONE ELSE THESE MAGAZINES DONT DISAPPOINT.
GREAT BASS FISHING TIPS AND TECHNIQUES TO HELP YOU CATCH MORE AND BIGGER BASS.

IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR MORE INFO ON HOW TO CATCH MORE AND BIGGER BASS

HERE ARE A FEW BOOKS YOU MIGHT ENJOY.

KEEP ON FISHIN.

HEY EVERYONE.

HERE ARE JUST A COUPLE OF BASS FISHING DVD’S THAT ARE AVAILABLE TO PURCHASE.
WE WILL OF COURSE ADD MORE AS WE FIND THEM.

NOW GET OUT THERE AND CATCH SOME BIG BASS.
THE FISHERMANS FRIENDS AT MFN

HERE ARE A LIST OF FISHING CHARTERS THAT HAVE BEEN SUBMITTED BY YOU AS RECOMMENDED.
PLEASE GIVE US THE WEBSITE ADDRESS FOR ANY OTHER FISHING CHARTER PEOPLE THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO SEE LINKED TO MY FISHING NETWORK.   WE DON’T CARE WHERE THEY ARE.   IF THEY WERE GOOD WITH YOU WE WANT TO KNOW ABOUT THEM SO THAT WE CAN GET THEIR NAMES OUT TO OTHER FISHERMEN WHO MIGHT WANT TO CHARTER IN THAT LOCATION.

SALMON EXPRESS - Lake Ontario Charter Fishing Adventures. Specializing in Corporate and pleasure cruises on Lake Ontario based in Port Credit.

SQUARE TAIL CHARTERS – SALMON AND TROUT FISHING ON LAKE ONTARIO

SALMON STRIKE SPORT FISHING CHARTERS – SALMON AND TROUT FISHING ON LAKE ONTARIO

ANDREWS CHARTERS – FOR SALMON AND TROUT FISHING CHARTERS IN THE PORT CREDIT AREA OF LAKE ONTARIO.

ALS ADVENTURES FISHING CHARTERS - FISHING CHARTERS ON LAKE ONTARIO AND AN ASSORTMENT OF OTHER LAKES

www.midagaultimatefishing.com.au - Fishing charters in Queensland Australia

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MORE CHARTERS TO COME VERY SOON

HI THERE FELLOW FISHING ENTHUSIAST.

HERE IS A SELECTION OF FISHING MAGAZINES THAT MAY INTEREST YOU.

WE GET ABOUT HALF OF THEM AND FIND THEM TO BE FULL OF FISHING INFORMATION, FISHING TIPS AND OTHER FISHING TECHNIQUES WHICH ARE VERY HELPFUL IN CATCHING MORE AND BIGGER FISH. WE WILL BE BREAKING THEM DOWN INTO MORE SPECIFIC CATAGORIES AS TIME PERMITS BUT WE ARE TRYING TO GET AS MUCH FISHING INFORMATION OUT THERE AS QUICKLY AS WE ARE ABLE

REGARDS FROM THE CREW AT MFN

JUST CLICK ON ANY OF THE MAGAZINES LISTED BELOW TO LOOK AT THEM

Here is some books we thought might interest you.
We will break them all down into appropriate catagories in the near future.
Just click on the link and it will take you to the website to purchase the book you are interested in.

Good reading from the crew at MFN